How climate change is redrawing Europe’s wine map

Unlock the Editor’s Digest for free Roula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter. At Les 110 Taillevent, a Michelin-starred Paris restaurant that specialises in pairing dishes with wines at various price points, the wine list reflects a traditional European hierarchy: French labels dominate, then Italian, Spanish, plus the occasional Californian bottle. One entry stands out: a white wine from Denmark. The Cuvée Frank, €28 for a small glass, hails from Stokkebye domaine in southern Denmark. Partially aged in oak, this fresh wine with flavours of green apple and pineapple also has “a certain nuttiness”, says Paul Robineau, executive head sommelier for the Taillevent group. Its presence signals something else, too: a redrawing of Europe’s wine map as climate change expands viticulture into territories long considered too cold, while challenging traditional winemaking regions to adapt. “Ten years ago, you would never see a Danish wine on the list,” Robineau says. “But, with the climate changing, Denmark is on its way to make great wines.” Located on the island of Funen, two hours’ drive from Copenhagen, Stokkebye began in 2009 as an experiment. Jacob Stokkebye, a trained sommelier, and his wife Helle decided to see if the climate could sustain a serious vineyard. At that time, Danish wine was largely confined to a few hobbyists experimenting with cold-hardy vines. PLAY | 00:18 © FT • Source: EarthDaily Analytics • Under RCP8.5 emissions path, the highest climate warming scenario But a combination of global warming and advancements in viticulture has turned this once-improbable pursuit into a small but vibrant industry. During the past decade, the number of vineyards in Denmark has doubled overall, while production has tripled. “The weather we have here in Denmark today is similar to what they had in parts of France […]

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